Sunday, November 2, 2008
Wear Fabulous Mens Suits
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Patterned Socks with Mens Suits
The socks should be mid calf height and it should be made up of cotton or wool though luxury dress socks may use exotic blends. As per the taste and color of double breasted suits, business suits, fashion suits, suits for men are perfectly designed.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Single Breasted Mens Suits
The single breasted suit jacket, blazers typically have two or three buttons and a notch lapel. Similar to the double breasted suits, single breasted suits are more familiar among men’s and most of the people use to wear different styles of single breasted men’s suits. It stands out to be an eye catching suit and it refers to a coat, jacket or garment having one column of buttons and narrow overlap of fabric. The double breasted coat has wider overlap and two parallel rows of buttons.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
World Class Men's Suits
Good material- Use soft hand feeling, high quality pure wool fabric and imported trimmings.
Fashionable style - Combine international fashion style with Chinese standard size men's suits are made in the style of elegance and grace.
Quality excellence - Combine Italy advanced techniques with traditional manual-skill, and fine workmanship.
Light well pressed, soft and elegant - With the international distinguish fashionable features of lightness, well-pressed, softness and elegance.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Why are EVA suits white?
Astronauts use white spacesuits when they go on spacewalks to do work outside the space shuttle or International Space Station. White was chosen for a few reasons. One of the most important reasons is that white reflects heat so that the astronaut doesn't get too warm. Astronauts can get too cold as well, but that is usually in their hands. Therefore, the spacesuits have heaters in their gloves.
Another reason spacewalkers use white spacesuits is that white is visible against the black background of space, so other astronauts can easily see the spacewalker. In addition, since spacewalking astronauts always go out in pairs, one of the suits always has red stripes in four places so the other astronauts can tell one spacewalker from the other. Inside the spaceship, astronauts get to wear clothes more like those you wear every day, and they can even help pick the colors.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Fire Tests of Men's Suits on Racks
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Men Wear Exclusive Suit Colors
Suits are tremendous wear for men. Men wearing suits in different colors enhance their style, look, professional and sophistication. In the past days, for business suits were made in wide array of colors. There are wide number of colors available in the market, especially business suits are made in navy blue, grey and charcoal colors. Brown and dark shades of green have turned to fashion, still this colors are not widely accepted as business wear by conservative men.
Today, black suits, navy pinstripe suits become the fashionable suits for men. For recreational purpose, men use to wear black suits and nowadays it has been widely used for formal occasion. Wide range of colors is available inclusive of greens, browns, reds, and grey. Men wearing different suit color enhance the charming look and attract people around the crowd.
Monday, September 8, 2008
Morning suit
The Scottish highland dress may be worn during the events that match well with morning dress. The morning suit version of highland dress consist of black or charcoal semi formal kilt jacket, the black or charcoal barathea waistcoat matching the jacket suit, white shirt with cufflinks, silver tie or tie in single color matching the kilt, black ghillie brogues, kilt hose of color, flashes, sporran sgian dubh and dirk. Men wearing black suit or white suits look impressive, graceful, formal and royal. Morning suits are best for royal ascot or wedding occasions.
Saturday, September 6, 2008
Tuxedo Formal Wear
The double breasted suit, fashion suit and business suit buttons should be satin covered. The shirt is white with linked cuffs and it will be pleated with turn down collar and French or barrel cuffs have a pique bib front with either turndown collar and French cuffs or wing collar and barrel cuffs. The contemporary fashions always features with full 5 or 6 button vest matching the color of one's partner's dress, with a matching bow tie or necktie of the same color. Black tuxedo is a more commonly used suits among men and most of the people make use of different color tuxedos. Only, the fabric of the tuxedo suit, not the cut or style, differentiates the modern tuxedo from a business suit.
Friday, September 5, 2008
Buttons on Men Suit Jacket
Vent is a slit in the bottom rear of the jacket. The vents were introduced in 1950s to make people more comfortable during warm season. The men’s suit jacket with belts became the more popular during World War I. Nowadays three styles of venting were used by people. They are single vented style, no vent style and double vented style.
Monday, September 1, 2008
Leisure suit – The Style of 1970s
Discount suits are also available in leisure suits which are associated in popular culture for bar, gangsterism, conversely with clueless dressing.
The fashion has some precedent in the styles of 70s and earlier, but leisure suit became popular only when with the creation and popularization of synthetic materials unprecedented cheapness met with a culture that had come to hate formality. It gained popularity with the promise to bring a stylish double breasted suit that could be used in formal business, but was comfortable and trendy enough for everyday wear.
The sub-genre of leisure suit culture is "full Cleveland". The full Cleveland is a leisure suit combined with a white belt and white dress shoes.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Zoot suit
The style of wearing zoot suit clothing was popularized by Hispanics, Italian Americans, African Americans, and Filipino Americans during the late 1930s and 1940. It is a high waisted, wide legged, tight cuffed pegged trouser and long coat with wide lapels and wide padded trousers. Zoot suits are one of the fashion suits during the late 1930s and 1940.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Attractive Double Breasted Men's Suits
Monday, August 11, 2008
Women's suits
In the first half of the 20th century, the skirted suit became the common daytime city costume for women, in the workplace and out; dressmaker suits featured softer fabrics and "feminine" details, and cocktail suits were worn for semi-formal occasions in mid-century.
Under the influence of Dress for Success, a working woman started using Formal Suits and their uniform were skirted suit, tailored shirt, and floppy tie evolved in the 1970s and 1980s. Pantsuits (women's suits with trousers) were introduced by designer André Courrèges in 1964 but were only gradually accepted as formal business attire.
Friday, July 25, 2008
EEOC SCORES VICTORY IN AGE BIAS SUIT AGAINST MAJOR INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY COMPANY
"Unlawful waivers that strip older workers of their rights under the ADEA fashion suits will be pursued by the EEOC to the three piece suits men fullest extent of the law," said Commission Chairwoman Ida L. Castro. "Employers will be well served to ensure that staff reductions comply with civil rights protections."
In its suit, EEOC and the Attorney General's Office alleged that Bull's severance plan adversely affected older employees by requiring them to sign waivers of their right to file charges and cooperate with public agencies as a condition of obtaining severance benefits. The suit further charged that Mens Tuxedo Bull's severance plan failed to meet the Double breasted suits requirements of the ADEA, as amended by the Older Workers Benefit Protection Act of 1990, by violating statutory information requirements, not allowing employees sufficient time to consider the terms of the White suits agreement, and/or not providing employees with additional compensation.
In granting the Mens brown suit Motion for Summary Judgment by EEOC and the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, U.S. District Court Judge Nancy Gertner wrote: "The Commonwealth and the black suits EEOC are entitled to judgment as a matter of law on their allegations regarding the Suit three piece unlawful Releases used by Bull from July 1994 - December 1997."
An ADEA waiver, or release, is an agreement between an employer and employee in which the employee gives up the wedding suits right to pursue an age discrimination claim against the employer in exchange for wedding suit severance or early retirement benefits or something else of value. Employees are often asked to sign waivers in connection with men suit layoffs or RIFs.
Under Title II of the Older Workers Benefit Protection Act of 1990, which amended the ADEA, Congress decided to permit these waivers, but set out a mens double breasted suits series of specific requirements with Suit for men which waivers must comply to be valid. Although employers may ask for waivers, they must also comply with the italian suits ADEA requirements to ensure that the process is fair.
"Older employees who are asked to sign waiver agreements have specific statutory rights under the Mens double breasted suits Older Workers Benefit Protection Act," said Katherine Bissell, regional attorney of Mens business suits EEOC's New York District Office, which filed the suit. "Among other things, these provisions include the unequivocal right of employees to bring claims to the EEOC, which was a key issue in this case."
Further information about the Mans Dress Suit ADEA and OWBPA, including EEOC guidance and rulemaking on waivers, is available on EEOC's Web site at http://www.eeoc.gov. In addition to enforcing the Double breasted men suits ADEA, which protects workers who are 40 years of age or older, the EEOC enforces Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, which prohibits employment discrimination based on race, color, religion, sex or national origin; the Equal Pay Act; prohibitions against mens italian suits discrimination affecting individuals with disabilities in the Suits for men federal sector; sections of the Civil Rights Act of 1991; and Title I of the Americans with Disabilities Act, which prohibits discrimination against people with disabilities in the mens wedding suits private sector and state and local governments.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Cancer T Shirts
Deciding that people need to share Mens Tuxedo what’s affected them I started a Cancer T Shirt project where you can mens wear a mens shirt for whatever cancer has affected you. We sell 3 piece suits in nine colors for some of the most prominent cancers in our society. All the money raised goes to fight all cancers.
Check “The Story” for more information on how this got started and check out the navy blue suits products to see what cancers we represent.
Some more cancers and business suits colors are below, if you can guarantee an order of 15 mens shirts or more I will do a special order just for you.
LUNG CANCER IS THE NEWEST CANCER TO BE REPRESENTED!!!
Lung cancer is said to be clear on the back mens weeding suit but after much thought I’ve decided that white suits is close enough and wool suits that white will represent both cervical cancer and lung cancer with these shirts.
Breast Cancer – Pink
Ovarian Cancer – Teal
Leukemia – Orange
Melanoma – Black
Brain Tumor – Grey
Prostate Cancer – Blue
Colon Cancer – Dark Blue
General Cancer – Lavender
Lung Cancer- White
Cervical Cancer- White*
Pancreatic Cancer – Purple
Leiomyoscarcoma – Purple
Multiple Myeloma – Burgundy
Childhood Cancers – Gold
Kidney Cancer – Kelly Green
Lymphoma- Lime Green
Uterine Cancer – Peach
Sarcoma/Bone Cancer – Yellow
Bladder Cancer – Yellow
Testicular Cancer – Orchid
Head and Neck Cancer – Burgundy/Ivory
Liver Cancer – Emerald
Thyroid Cancer – Light Blue
Endometrial Cancer – Peach
Esophageal Cancer – Periwinkle
Gastric Cancer – Perwinkle
Small Intestine Cancer – Perwinkle
Colorectal Cancer – Blue
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
American Men's Attire: 1860-1900
There are four kinds of coats which he must have: a business coat, a frock coat, a dress-coat and an overcoat. A well men suits dressed man may do well with four of the 2 button suits first, and one each of the Suits information others per annum. An economical man may get by with less."
"The mens dress of a gentleman should be such as not to excite any special observation, unless it be for neatness and propriety. The utmost care should be exercised to avoid even the mens shirts appearance of desiring to attract formal suits attention by the Suits for men peculiar formation of any article of attire, or by the display of an immoderate quantity of jewelry, both being a positive evidence of vulgarity. His dress should be studiously neat, leaving no other impression than that of a well brown suits dressed gentleman."
"Don't dress like a 'dude' or a 'swell'; nor carry a little poodle dog (a man's suits glory is his strength and manliness--not in aping silly girls), nor cock your hat on one side mens suits, nor tip it back on your head (let it sit straight and square), nor mens wear anything conspicuous or that will make you offensive to others"
"The native independence of American Mens Business Suit character regards with Suits men disdain many of the italian suits stringent social laws which are mens business suits recognized in England and on the continent. Thus, the mens dress which many of our countrymen adopt...would subject them to serious annoyance abroad."
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Abstract Of Men's Suits
A series of fire tests were conducted to mens suits characterize the potential hazard from ignition of fashion suits hanging on racks. The fire test of formal suits scenario was selected as part of a fire investigation being conducted by the 2 button suits U.S. Department of Treasury’s Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms. Heat release rate was determined as a function of time from ignition using the oxygen depletion principle.
In addition, the total suits heat flux from the burning suits and the mass loss were measured. Three tests were conducted with the mens 3 piece suits placed in the open under a large Suits Information calorimeter. The men italian suits were ignited either in the black suits center or at the end of the brown suits rack with a propane torch. Peak heat release rates obtained during the Suits for men tests ranged from approximately 1 MW to 2 MW.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
European men want skirts
Most extraordinary European men suits united in association which “without dependence from Discount Suits sexual orientation or any fetishism” struggles for the right to put on 2 button suits.
Sometimes Members of association even afford mens dresses and stockings. The basic purpose of Tuxedo Formal Wear is to receive convenience and pleasure.Hommes en jupe (Men in a skirt) Association, created in June, 2007, totals three ten of members, ready to chat on the Internet about cloths, Suits dress, mens wedding suits emancipation and loneliness.
This Association is only a top of huge iceberg: the whole group of men suits guys many years speaks about the black suit desire to refuse from trousers and to put on mens italian suits.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
What does the color of your swimming suit tell about you?
Dark blue
Psychologists approve, that the most advantageous color for a swimming suit and swimming trunks - is dark blue and all its Mens Tuxedo shades. Color of the 2 button suits sky and the mens suits sea “cools” undesirable hot sights and makes you look Mans Dress Suit lady-mysteriousness. At the Suits Information it will emphasize Brown Suits athleticism and will hint on … intelligence. Choosing dark blue suits for men, you undesirably inform people that you are quiet, counterbalanced, and self-sufficient and you are adjusted on acquaintances with exclusively serious intentions, without any platitude. By the way, women with “magnificent” forms are better to be covered with light business suits (this color conceals all surpluses of the figure).
Green
It is necessary to be very cautious with this brown suits color. Light green unprofitably shades a skin, and it also Mens Wedding Suit signals about psychological immaturity. Though you if you wish to be thoughtless, you can risk.
Red
The red double breasted suits and suit three piece will raise and draw all attention to you. Do you really need this? Recently, the American psychologists have leaded an experiment: they have dressed up nice girls in swimming suits of different colors. These girls have walked before men suits studying them for 5 minutes. Then girls dressed up and were again showed to black suits, offering to guess, what the color of each girl’s Mans Dress Suit was. It has appeared that all Mens double breasted suits colors were approximately equally guessed - with accuracy from 60 up to 70 %, except for the red: the girls flaunted before men in Double breasted men's suits of this color, have not been noticed at all. And all this happened because Mens Italian Suit eyes stared at girls’s bodies, but not their faces.
Yellow
It is playful color. It will give out your carelessness and lightness.
It is shown for young girls and maidens.
Black
This color is presumed only by young girls with a good figure (though also it will give Mens Business Suit. those features of easy bitchiness) as it gives out all the Mensdouble breasted suit defects of the figure and it dexterously emphasizes “the toasts, eaten for a breakfast”.
White
White color is preferred by Suit for men touchy and mollycoddles people.
Choose smooth, and an impressive, “thick” fabric, probably, not cleanly white, and Suits men with impregnations.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
Pantsuit
A pantsuit, also recognized as a trouser suit, is a woman's suit of clothing consisting of trousers and a identical or coordinating mens coat or sheathing. The pantsuit was very fashionable in the 1920s, during the mens suits Roaring Twenties when women took on a novel role wearing pantsuits, cap, and even using wicker
Andre Courreges introduced long trousers for women as a fashion thing in the late 1960s, and over the next 40 years pantsuits steadily became suitable business wear for women. In 1966, designer Yves Saint-Laurent introduced his Le Smoking, a twilight pantsuit for women church suits that mimicked a man's tuxedo. More recently, Hillary Rodham Clinton is famous for discount suits trademark blue pantsuits.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Ties with suits
Working with neckties is extremely an issue of individual taste, but in mens suits conservative expressions there are some essential guiding principle. Ties should constantly be darker when compared to the wearer's shirt. The background color of the Suits for men tie should not be the similar as that of the white suits, while the foreground of the tie should have the color of the Suit three piece and thus "pick up" on the color of the men shirt. Ideally, the tie should also incorporate the color of the suit for men the same way. Normally, simple or subdued pattern are chosen for traditional dress.
In modern times however, it has become fashionable to match the necktie color with the Discount Suits or even wearing a lighter colored tie with a darker shirt, generally during the mens suits formal occasion. A few of the mens wedding suits most common knots are the 2 button suit, Suits, Four-in-hand and the Shelby or Pratt. A Four-in-hand, Half-Windsor, or Windsor is usually the most suitable with a men business suit. Once correctly knotted and arranged, the bottom of the tie must just touch the top of the Mans Dress Suit belt buckle. The thin end should not widen below the wide end.
It has become stylish to breasted double suit wear a suit with no tie and with an unlock necked mens shirt amongst young men.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Bell bottoms
Bell-bottoms are trousers that turn into wider from the knees downwards. Related styles comprise flare, loon slacks and boot-cut/leg trousers. Hip-huggers are bell-bottomed, flare, or boot-cut pants that are built-in tightly around the hips and thighs worn by men and women.
Bell-bottoms precise origins are uncertain. In the early nineteenth century, very wide pants ending in a bell began to be worn in the U.S. Navy (Clothing varied between ships, however, since in the early days of the U.S. Navy each ship's captain decided what clothing to buy for his men). In one of the first recorded descriptions of sailors' uniforms, Commodore Stephen Decatur wrote in 1813 that the men on the frigates United States and Macedonia were wearing "glazed canvas hats with stiff brims, decked with streamers of ribbon, blue jackets buttoned loosely over waistcoats and blue ters with bell bottoms." Though the British Royal Navy usually was the leader in nautical fashion, bell-bottoms did not become regulation wear for the Royal Navy until the mid-1800s.
These "bell-bottoms" were often just very wide-legged trousers, unlike modern versions cut with a distinct bell. While many reasons to explain sailors' wearing of this style have been cited over the years, most theories have little credibility because reliable documentation is lacking. In the 1960s, at least, U.S. naval recruits were taught to use their bellbottoms as life preservers by slipping them off, then tying the legs shut and capturing air in them.
Friday, June 20, 2008
space suit
A space suit is a complex system of garments, equipment and environmental systems designed to keep a person alive and comfortable in the harsh environment of outer space. This applies to extra-vehicular activity outside spacecraft orbiting Earth and has apply to walking, and riding the Lunar Rover, on the Moon.
Some of these requirements are also apply to pressure suits worn for other specialized tasks, such as high-altitude reconnaissance flight. Above Armstrong's Line (~63,000 ft/~19,000 m), pressurized suits are required in the sparse atmosphere. Hazmat suits that superficially resemble space suits are sometimes used when dealing with biological hazards.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Tracksuit
A tracksuit is an article of clothing consisting of two parts- trousers and jacket. It was originally intended for make use of in sports, mainly as what athletes wore over competition clothing (such as running shirt and shorts or a swimsuit) and would take off before competition.
Tracksuits were very popular with the hip hop fashion and breakdancing scene of the 1980s. During this period tracksuits were manufactured from a mix of triacetate and polyester make them extremely shiny on the outside - ideal for breakdancing on smooth floors and yet fleecy on the inside ensuring comfort for the wearer.
Monday, June 9, 2008
The suit in Italy
The better-cut the suit, the improved business the wearer is probable to be in. And if the suit is hack fine, chances say that it is an Italian suit. Italian suits have nowadays come to symbolize some of the finest quality work in men's couture, and bring prestige to the one who wears. But they were not all the time the most famous. The history of the Italian suit goes back a long time, and its progress makes for a fascinating story.
The suit as a form of business clothes developed in Europe, and reached its zenith in Britain at the famed Savile Row, frequented by all right gentlemen of impeccable lineage. But gradually, the skills of suit-making began to filter to other part of Europe, but especially, to Italy. Some of the finest suits in the world of style began to be formed in this country.
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Neckties & Collars
The 19th Century American man had a considerable choice of necktie styles--and many working class types did without them entirely.
By far the most common was the small, black, tidy bow tie, but various forms of cravat, from the Windsor, to the Ascot, found their way onto American throats.
He also wore a wide variety of collars: some removable, some attached, some starched, some soft and some hardly there at all.
This fine looking young man from the 1890s is wearing a Windsor tie, in patterned silk, tucked in after a fashion that seems to have been popular in the US (I have seen several examples of it).
His collar is the winged style often called "Patricide", based on a fictitious story that a young man returned from university wearing the new style starched collar (new in the 1850s). When his father embraced him, the points on the collar cut his father's throat.
This, of course, never happened but the story was enough to name the collar. This style was frequently worn with frock suits, morning suits and evening wear (he seems to be wearing a morning suit). It was seldom worn with sack suits.
Stiff collars were usually removable, so they could be washed and starched apart from the shirt, and thrown away when they became worn, while the shirt could remain in service for years to come.
Removable collars were usually made of linen. Cheap paper and then celluloid collars came on the market at the end of the 19th Century.
Monday, May 26, 2008
The Vest
The vest was an essential part of a gentleman's wardrobe in the 19th Century. It was only ever dispensed with by men doing hard manual labor--though they often sported one as well.
In the 1860s, colorful vests, often of patterned Chinese silk were popular, especially in the South and the West. They are now associated with gamblers, but they had a wider appeal in their time. Gamblers were the last to give them up.
From the 1870s on, vests tended to be black or white for wear with frock coats, morning coats or evening dress coats, which of course, were also black by that time. When worn with a sack suit, they would be of a color to match the suit. Evening vests were cut low to show off the shirt. In the 1860s, the day vest was also often fairly low cut with a broad shawl collar. From the 1870s, the day vest would tend to be fairly high cut and have a small, notched lapel.
There are a few points of difference between 20th Century vests and 19th Century vests. 19th Century vests usually (though not always) had lapels, either in a shawl or notched style. They also nearly always had a lower hem that was parallel to the ground, rather than the modern vest which tapers downward in front.
The following are some photographs of a late 19th Century day vest in my collection.
Friday, May 23, 2008
Informal Clothing
The vast majority of American men did not even wear sack suits for every day attire.
Farmers, laborers, ranchers, factory workers and such usually wore a outfit of sturdy wool, corduroy or denim trousers, a wool flannel, linen or cotton pull over shirt, a hat and sturdy shoes. Suspenders were commonly worn, though they were unpopular with men who had to bend or squat a lot, like sailors, cowboys or miners. Trousers did not have belt loops until the 20th Century.
The daily wear of working men also frequently made use of second hand or worn out pieces of sack, frock or morning suits. Vests were also frequently worn.
The man on the left in the picture on the right is wearing a cotton duck or denim bib apron, a common garment with blacksmiths or others doing particularly dirty work.
The substantial fellow next to him is typical of a western farmer or rancher, in his colorful shirt (red, blue or checked were the most common), smashed hat and (it would appear), neckerchief. His trousers may have been black dress pants in a former life.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Evening Wear
Oh my aching head! Nearly everyone has had a headache. The most common type of headache is a tension headache. Tension headaches are due to tight muscles in your shoulders, neck, scalp and jaw. They are often related to stress, depression or anxiety. You are more likely to get tension headaches if you work too much, don't get enough sleep, miss meals or use alcohol.
Other common types of headaches include migraines, cluster headaches and sinus headaches. Most people can feel much better by making lifestyle changes, learning ways to relax and taking pain relievers.
Headaches can have many causes, but serious causes of headaches are rare. Sometimes headaches warn of a more serious disorder. Let your health care provider know if you have sudden, severe headaches. Get medical help right away if you have a headache after a blow to your head, or if you have a headache along with a stiff neck, fever, confusion, loss of consciousness or pain in the eye or ear.
Gentleman's evening wear changed hardly at all from around 1860 until the 1920s. It was a unvarying uniform of black tail coat, white bow tie, black or white vest (there seems to have been some personal latitude in selecting a vest--black being the most common) and black trousers, with a white, heavily starched shirt. The only thing that changed was the collar, which became tall and stiff around 1890.
Outdoors, evening wear would be worn with a silk top hat and a black cape or overcoat.
White gloves were an essential accessory, especially when dancing, as touching a lady with bare hands was not only a bit crude, but one's sweat could soil her gown.
"The evening or full dress suit for gentlemen is a black dress-suit--a 'swallow tail' coat, the vest cut low, the cravat white, and kid gloves of the palest hue or white. The shirt front should be white and plain; the studs and cuff buttons simple. Especial attention should be given to the hair, which should be neither short nor long. It is better to err on the too short side, as too long hair savors of affectation, destroys the shape of the physiognomy, and has a touch of vulgarity about it. Evening dress is the same for a large dinner party, a ball or an opera. In some circles, however, evening dress is considered to be an affectation, and it is well to do as others do. On Sunday, morning dress is worn, and on that day of the week no gentleman is expected to appear in evening dress, either at church, at home or away from home. Gloves are dispensed with at dinner parties, and pale colors [of gloves] are preferred to white for evening wear."
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
The Morning Suit
In the early 1880s, a compromise was made between the, by then, rigid formality of the Frock Suit and the laid back informality of the Sack Suit. The result was the Morning Suit.
This suit retained the gray, striped trousers and black vest and coat of the Frock Suit, but softened the lines a bit by rounding the bottom hem of the coat and shrinking the lapels.
Further, unlike the frock suit for which a top hat was essential (at least in town), the Morning Suit allowed a certain amount of latitude in headgear, with top hats for business and formal calls, and a tall crowned bowler for less dressy occasions. There was also more latitude with neck wear than with a Frock Suit, with Windsor ties more common than bow ties.
The Morning Suit could be worn at weddings, funerals, calls of ceremony, teas and other daytime formal occasions. It could also be worn for business, but the Frock Coat still reigned supreme with the management in the office. The Sack Suit or Morning Suit was suitable for more junior staff and clerks.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
The Sack Suit
The sack suit, or business suit, (or, in Britain, the "lounge suit") was leisure wear for men who might wear a frock coat, and the best clothes of vast majority of American men. A banker would wear a sack suit to a picnic, and a cowboy or farmer would wear it to church.
It first came into fashion in the 1850s as a very large, baggy garment, and then became more fitted in the '60s and beyond. It evolved into the modern three piece suit.
Its popularity was assured by the fact that it could be purchased, ready made, at prices working men could afford.
The most common colors were black or gray, and the pieces usually, but not always, matched. They could be almost any color though, and plaid was particularly popular.
The coat usually had four buttons, the top one of which was generally buttoned--the rest left undone.
The gentleman on the left is breaking the rule of matching trousers and upper garments, and is in fact wearing the striped gray tousers which one is supposed to wear with a morning or frock suit. Since he is also wearing a white tie, he may be a member of a wedding party, and this is his way of "dressing up" his ordinary sack suit, or maybe he is a just an American and doesn't worry too much about "the rules".
Note the splendid tall crowned bowler hat (typical of the late '70s and 1880s), the watch chain attached to one of the top vest buttons, the vest cut straight across the waist, and the bone, wood or gutta-percha (gavinized rubber) buttons. On frock or morning coats, the buttons were usually covered in silk or other fabric, while they were usually uncovered on sack suits.
Monday, May 19, 2008
The Frock Suit (Day Wear)
The frock coat was single or double breasted, usually black, bottom hem above the knee, and distinguished by a squared shape at the bottom front. Its companion, the morning coat was single breasted and has a rounded, swallow tail shape. Both were refered to as "morning" dress, to distinguish them from evening dress. Both were worn with contrasting pants and top hats. In the South and West however, top hats were often replaced by broad brimmed, low crowned hats for everyday frock suit wear. Garish colorful vests, often of patterned Chinese silk, were still common with frock suits through the early '60s, but were replaced by black, white or gray by the '70s. The same applied to ties. Colorful cravats were often seen with Frocks in the '60s, but by the '70s most, but not all, had been replaced by small black bow ties.
"The morning dress for gentlemen is a black frock coat, or a black cut-away, white or black vest, according to the season, gray or colored pants, plaid or stripes according to the fashion, a high silk stove pipe hat, and a black scarf or necktie. A black frock coat with black pants is not considered a good combination.. The morning dress is suitable for garden parties, Sundays, social teas, informal calls, morning calls and receptions."
Friday, May 16, 2008
Hair Styles to Suit your Face Shape
Fashion cannot be followed blindly! Especially with hairstyles, you should always see what suits your facial features . The marvelous hairstyle that might look good on a model may not of necessity look good for you.
Hair Style for A round face Shape
Since you have a nice round face, see that your hair is cut onto your cheeks to dark them and slim down the sides. A shoulder length cut will help make your face look longer and slimmer. Avoid periphery and tresses. A soft feathery look is the most satisfying. Straight long hair gives a stunning effect!
Hair Style for A Long face Shape
Your beautiful long face can be made to look less long with outer reaches, soft half-fringes or a chin-length cut which is fuller at the bottom, add width. Anything but a long straight bob, which will make you come into view even more long faced and pulls down your whole appearance.
Hair Style for A heart-shaped face
Since you have a beautiful heart-shaped face, smoothness at the temples and completeness just below the ear level suits you the best. Avoid a center parting, as it tends to highlight your pointed chin, instead part your hair on one side or wear it without a part. If your hair is short, turn the ends inwards.
Hair Style for A Square face Shape
Fringes and curls flicked forward help to soften ‘corners’ of you square face. Cut your hair short at the temples. Avoid symmetry, short crops or anything geometric. Make sure your hair has body, if necessary go in for a soft perm.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
OFFICIAL FEARS OF FIFTH COLUMN FASHION
Official reactions to the Zoot-Suit Riots varied enormously. The most urgent problem that concerned California's State Senators was the adverse effect that the events might have on the relationship between the United States and Mexico. This concern stemmed partly from the wish to preserve good international relations, but rather more from the significance of relations with Mexico for the economy of Southern California, as an item in the Los Angeles Times made clear. 'In San Francisco Senator Downey declared that the riots may have 'extremely grave consequences' in impairing relations between the United States and Mexico. and may endanger the program of importing Mexican labor to aid in harvesting California crops.(21) These fears were compounded when the Mexican Embassy formally drew the Zoot-Suit Riots to the attention of the State Department. It was the fear of an international incident (22) that could only have an adverse effect on California's economy, rather than any real concern for the social conditions of the MexicanAmerican community, that motivated Governor Warren of California to order a public investigation into the causes of the riots. In an ambiguous press statement, the Governor hinted that the riots may have been instigated by outside or even foreign agitators:
As we love our country and the boys we are sending overseas to defend it, we are all duty bound to suppress every discordant activity which is designed to stir up international strife or adversely affect our relationships with our allies in the United Nations.The Zoot-Suit Riots provoked two related investigations; a fact finding investigative committee headed by Attorney General Robert Kenny and an un-American activities investigation presided over by State Senator Jack B Tenney. The un-American activities investigation was ordered "to determine whether the present Zoot-Suit Riots were sponsored by Nazi agencies attempting to spread disunity between the United States and Latin-American countries."(24) Senator Tenney, a member of the un-American Activities committee for Los Angeles County, claimed he had evidence that the Zoot-Suit Riots were "axis-sponsored" but the evidence was never presented.(25) However, the notion that the riots might have been initiated by outside agitators persisted throughout the month of June, and was fueled by Japanese propaganda broadcasts accusing the North American government of ignoring the brutality of US marines.
The arguments of the un-American activities investigation were given a certain amount of credibility by a Mexican pastor based in Watts, who according to the press had been "a pretty rough customer himself, serving as a captain in Pancho Villa's revolutionary army."(26) Reverend Francisco Quintanilla, the pastor of the Mexican Methodist church, was convinced the riots were the result of fifth columnists. "When boys start attacking servicemen it means the enemy is right at home. It means they are being fed vicious propaganda by enemy agents who wish to stir up all the racial and class hatreds they can put their evil fingers on."(27)
The attention given to the dubious claims of nazi-instigation tended to obfuscate other more credible opinions. Examination of the social conditions of pachuco youths tended to be marginalized in favour of other more "newsworthy" angles. At no stage in the press coverage were the opinions of community workers or youth leaders sought, and so, ironically, the most progressive opinion to appear in the major newspapers was offered by the Deputy Chief of Police, E.W. Lester. In press releases and on radio he provided a short history of gang subcultures in the Los Angeles area and then tried, albeit briefly, to place the riots in a social context.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Tips on buying your first suit
Finding a store and a helpful salesperson
Buying a suit for the first time can be daunting, especially if you have little experience with the topic. The whole process is made much easier and more enjoyable if you find a friendly and knowledgeable salesperson to assist you. If you want a suit that looks good and fits comfortably, be prepared to spend a good deal of time with your salesperson, and don't be afraid to ask questions or speak up when something feels odd or uncomfortable. If you aren't working well with a particular salesperson, don't hesitate to try another store or find someone else to assist you--it will be worthwhile to find a person who will really take an interest in helping you.
A good way to find a knowledgeable salesperson is to ask a well-dressed friend or relative where they purchased their suit. You could even ask a well-dressed stranger--many men are happy to give referrals if they have found a store or salesperson they especially like.
If you cannot get a referral, you might want to try a popular men's store such as The Men's Wearhouse, a reputable menswear shop in your town, or the menswear section of a major department store.
If you are a man who is smaller in stature, you might want to check the Men's Clothing for Short and Small Guys page for a list of retailers who specialize in short men's clothing and custom-made clothing. A number of these retailers feature suits and formal wear.
Monday, May 12, 2008
Fitting the suit properly
When you are shopping for a suit, you should expect the salesperson to take all your measurements: neck, shoulders, sleeves, chest, waist, and inseam. Have them measure you first, before you begin looking at suits.
If there is any part of the suit that doesn't fit exactly right, it should be altered by the shop. In some stores, alterations are free, and in some you will pay a fee. Again, it is good to be working with a salesperson who has your best interests in mind when it comes to fitting. Be sure to ask questions if you are not sure how something should feel or fit.
For men who are binding
Keep in mind that if you are binding your chest, your salesperson and tailor might have to make some special considerations when fitting the suit for you. Wear your usual binder when shopping for your suit. If you wish to explain the binder to the salesperson, you can tell him or her that you suffer from gynecomastia (a condition of enlarged breast tissue in men), and that you need a suit that will help minimize the look of your chest. If you have been referred to an understanding tailor or salesperson, you may choose to disclose your trans status and ask them to work with you on fitting the suit to best flatter your current appearance. However, you should not feel obligated to explain your binder to anyone; some men wear medical braces or other items under their clothing-- all such items are typically considered to be a private matter.
Friday, May 9, 2008
Ties
The tie you choose should have subtle patterns and background colors to match the suit. If you are unsure, ask for assistance in a good menswear store. 100% silk ties tend to make the best knots. If you feel choked when wearing a tie, make sure that the collar of your shirt is not too tight--this is often the cause of the discomfort.
How to tie a tie
Four basic tie knots are described here: the four-in-hand, the half Windsor, the full Windsor (double Windsor), and the bow tie. The bow tie is usually only used with a tuxedo and is not recommended for a classic suit and tie look.
Keep in mind that when you look at the illustrations below, they are mirror images: they show what you would see as you look in the mirror to tie your tie.
Four-in-hand
This knot is simple to tie and has just a few twists. Learn this knot first, as it is the easiest, and it's an appropriate knot for all occasions.
1. Drape the tie over your neck and under your shirt collar. Start with the wide end of the tie on your right and extend it a foot below the narrow end.
2. Cross the wide end over the narrow end, and bring it back underneath.
3. Continue around, crossing the wide end over the narrow end once more.
4. Pass the wide end through the loop you have created near your shirt collar.
5. Holding the front of the knot loose with your index finger, pass the wide end down through the loop in front.
6. Remove finger and tighten the knot carefully. Draw up to the collar by holding the narrow end and sliding knot up snugly.
Half Windsor
The half Windsor is an excellent all-occasion knot that is relatively easy to tie.
1. Drape the tie over your neck and under your shirt collar. Start with the wide end of the tie on your right and extend it a foot below the narrow end.
2. Cross the wide end over the narrow end, and bring it back underneath.
3. Bring the wide end up and turn down through the loop you've created near your collar.
4. Pass the wide end around the front from left to right.
5. Bring the wide end up and through the loop from behind.
6. Bring the wide end down through the knot in front. Tighten carefully and draw up to your collar.
Full Windsor (Double Windsor)
The full Windsor is the dressiest knot of the three. It is ideal for wide collar openings and extra-long neckties, though it may look crowded if you have a narrow collar opening.
1. Drape the tie over your neck and under your shirt collar. Start with the wide end of the tie on your right and extend it a foot below the narrow end.
2. Cross the wide end over the narrow end and bring up through the loop you've created near your collar.
3. Bring the wide end down and around behind the narrow end, then up on your right.
4. Pass the wide end through the loop, then around and across the narrow end.
5. Turn and pass the wide end up through the loop.
6. Complete by slipping the wide end down through the knot in the front. Tighten and draw up snug to your collar.
Bow tie
This knot is appropriate for tuxedos.
1. Drape the tie over your neck and under your shirt collar. Start with the end in your left hand extending 1-1.5 inches below the end in your right hand.
2. Cross the longer end (in your left hand) over the shorter end and pass up through the loop around your neck.
3. Form the front loop of the bow by doubling up the shorter end (the hanging end), and placing across your collar points.
4. Hold this front loop with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand. Drop the long end down over the front loop. Make sure that the front loop remains well formed and tight against your neck.
5. Place your right forefinger pointing up on the bottom half of the hanging part of the tie. Pass it up behind the front loop.
6. Poke the resulting loop through the knot behind the front loop. Even the ends and tighten.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Shirt
It is best to have a 100% cotton dress shirt to wear with your suit (like wool, cotton breathes). Plain white, point collar shirts are okay with all styles of suits and on all occasions. There are numerous variations in shirt collars-- you should choose a collar that is both classic and flattering to your face. For example, if you have a narrow face, you might want to consider a spread collar; if you have a round face, consider a straight point collar. As a rule, never wear a button-down collar shirt with a double-breasted suit.
Your shirt should be smooth around the neck and allow for an index finger of breathing room in the collar. You should never feel choked by your collar. Most men who feel choked when wearing a suit and tie often are wearing shirts with an ill-fitting collar. Have a salesperson measure you to fit your shirt and collar properly.
Belt, shoes, and socks
Your belt should be the same color as your shoes, and both belt and shoes should preferably be made of leather. Black is usually a safe choice for both shoes and belt. Wingtips or other traditional lace-up shoes are recommended. Socks should be dress socks and should match your pants. The metal of your belt buckle should match the metal of your watch, if you wear one.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Cut
The cut of a suit refers to how the suit sits or hangs on your body. Suits can be broken down into three basic cuts:
1. The American cut. First introduced by Brooks Brothers in 1895, it features a boxy silhouette, straight hanging lines, natural shoulders (no padding), flap pockets, and a single center vent in the jacket. The American cut is a classic cut that is a fine choice for a first suit.
2. The British cut. This cut is more shaped than the American suit with slightly pinched waist, double vents, higher armholes, padded shoulders, and flap pockets.
3. The European cut (Italian). Sleek, modern, with padded shoulders, no vents, flapless pockets, and tapered waist (V-shape) on the jacket.
Of course, these are simply basic descriptions; there are many variations in the way suits are cut and styled. For example, another popular cut variation in recent years is the "executive cut," which allows for more room along the waistline for those men who carry more weight in their belly.
The important thing when considering cut and style is to find a suit that fits and flatters your particular body type, and that is "classic" enough in its styling that it won't go out of style next season. Ask your salesperson to help you find a good, basic cut and style that will wear well for you on many occasions.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Fabric
It is highly recommended that your first suit be made of 100% wool. Wool is a natural fiber that breathes, which means you'll be more comfortable and you'll sweat less than in a suit made of man-made materials. Wool is also durable and travels well.
Fabrics other than wool have their drawbacks, and probably should not be considered for a first suit, unless there is no alternative. Polyester suits should be avoided, as they do not breathe, but if you need to keep costs down, a polyester/wool blend might be a reasonable choice.
Look for suits made of 100% "worsted" wool. The worsting process involves selecting long wool fibers and twisting them into tight and resilient yarns. Worsted wool suits are durable, hard-wearing, and usually fine for wear in all seasons.
As for the weight of the fabric, the mid-weights are best overall for year-round wear, unless you live in a very warm climate. If you do happen to live in a very warm or very cold climate, ask your salesperson about your best options in fabric weight.
Monday, May 5, 2008
Caring for your suit
Lining inside the suit jacket pants increases comfort and reduces wrinkling. A crotch liner can be added to your suit pants to reduce abrasion between your thighs and the suit's fabric, and to help your pants last longer.
Always unbutton your suit coat when sitting. Also when sitting, pull your slacks up slightly at the thigh to reduce stress on the seams.
Always hang your suit on a curved wooden hanger, with the curve going forward. Leave space between your suit(s) and the other garments hanging in your closet.
When your suit gets wrinkled, have it pressed. You only need to dry clean your suit when it is dirty. Suits worn regularly usually only need to be dry cleaned a few times per year. Too much dry cleaning makes natural fibers like wool more brittle, so dry clean only when necessary.
Friday, May 2, 2008
Points to consider when buying a suit
When shopping for a suit, consider fabric, style and cut, color, and having the suit fitted properly. You should also consider the accessories you'll need with a suit, such as a dress shirt, a tie, a belt, and a good pair of shoes. Keep those items in mind and mention them to your salesperson when considering your budget.
Although retailers often recommend buying the best suit one can afford, when it comes to first-time suits, it may be wiser to hold back. This is especially true for trans men who have just started testosterone as their bodies will probably go through some major changes (much like any man experiences going through puberty) . It would be a shame to grow out of an expensive suit in less than a year! This is not to say that you should buy the cheapest suit off the rack-- you should still look for quality and a good fit whenever possible. Discuss your budget constraints with your salesperson, and have him or her guide you to your best options within that range.
A note for those on a very strict budget: You might want to visit a menswear store to have your measurements taken and to get a general education on fabric, cut, and how a good suit should look and feel on your body. Then you can take this information and visit a thrift store to find a suit that fits reasonably well, and spend a little money to have it fitted properly by a tailor. Thrift stores may have a decent selection of good wool suits (some worn only a few times) at very reasonable prices.
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
How the suit should look
To follow are some hints on the various parts of the suit, and how they should appear when fitted properly.
The jacket: should lie smoothly over your shoulders and across your back, and should look proportional to your physique. The length of the jacket should cover up your entire backside (your butt).
Jacket sleeves: should end at the point where your hands meet your wrists and show 1/2 inch of your shirt cuff. Higher armholes may help your suit to drape better on your body, but they should never feel tight or binding. Make sure that you have free movement of your arms. As a test, bring your arms straight out in front of you.
The collar: should hug the back of the neck without buckling or pulling. 1/2 inch of your shirt collar should show from under the suit's collar.
Shoulder pads: if you have them, should help the suit to hang properly and help you achieve more of a "V" shape. For guys with narrow shoulders, pads might help you look more masculine, but they should never be too bulky or obvious, nor should they be so wide as to diminish the appearance of the head. The shoulders of a jacket should frame the head for a balanced presentation.
Lapels: should lie flat to your chest, and should never bunch up or buckle.
Vents: are in the flap of cloth below the waist at the back of the jacket that covers your backside (your butt). You can have one, two, or no vents depending on your body type. If you have a large backside, two vents are advisable; if you have a very flat backside, you can opt for no vents. The idea is to not have the back of the jacket stretching across your butt.
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
New Fashion Academy
Fashion and Textile Museum (FTM) is redeveloped and home to a new Academy to provide education and professional development within the fashion, textile and jewellery sectors. Martin Tolhurst, Principal of Newham College, which now owns and manages the FTM said: 'The fashion business can be a tough environment in which to flourish and yet the creative industries are vital to the
The Academy will be open to all who want to broaden their skills in the fashion industries, from those looking for full-time courses, short professional courses or more tailored for businesses. Next to offering education and training, the Academy will work in partnership with industry bodies such as Skillfast-UK and the Creative and Cultural Industries Sector Skills Councils as well as individual companies to design and deliver high quality apprenticeship programmes.
As well as the new Academy, FTM is developing a programme of changing exhibitions exploring elements of contemporary fashion, style and couture. The FTM's first exhibition is being staged in collaboration with the Getty Images Gallery. Peacocks and Pinstripes A Snapshot of Masculine Style, will zoom in on men's fashion and will run from February to May 2008.
Monday, April 28, 2008
Fun Fashion Facts
*Cleopatra, Queen of Egypt, was said to use kohl to widen her eyes. Egyptian women are also said to have used henna to lighten their hair.
*The “Gibson Girl” look, popularized in 1890 by Charles Dana Gibson, came to symbolize the sensible American girl's ideal image.
*Perfume is an over $10 million dollar industry. It's been used as far back as the Ancient Egyptians, who used it in religious rituals.
*The modern era of perfume began in 1921 with Coco Chanel's launch of Chanel No. 5, an exotic floral blend, created by Ernest Beaux.
*Prior to 1850, 70 percent of the clothes worn were hand-stitched by the people who wore them. Clothes were a commodity, not fashion.
*Fashion designers of the 1500s showed their designs by crafting doll clothes versions of their fashions and taking them to shows.
*It's only quite recently, about 200 years, that children have had clothes distinct from those of adults. Earlier, they just wore smaller sizes.
*The Phoenicians of 2300 B.C. favored a simple garment made from a triangular piece of cotton, for both sexes. It draped across one shoulder.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Tips on sizing and fit
Measurements on men's pants are usually listed with the waist measurement first, followed by the inseam measurement. So a 30x32 jean would have a 30-inch waist and a 32-inch inseam.
The "rise" on a pair of pants or jeans refers to the distance between the crotch and the waist. For shorter men, the rise of standard cut pants is often too long, causing the crotch to hang too low, or causing the wearer to have to pull the pants up too high on his waistline. Pants that are made especially for short men tend to have a shorter rise that is in proportion to the rest of the measurements. The rise will vary among different brands and styles, so be sure to try on pants to make sure they look good on your particular body shape.
Some of the "low rise" jeans styles available at stores that carry shorter inseams (see jeans listings below) might be worth a try to see if the shorter rise flatters your body type. What is a very "low rise" on a taller guy might look perfect on a shorter guy (if he can find a short enough inseam or have the pants hemmed).
Sizing in shirts
Most men's shirts that are simply labeled "small" (but don't necessarily have specific measurements listed on the package or label) usually are around the ballpark of a 14-14.5 inch collar, a 34-36 inch chest, and a "regular" sleeve length of 32-33 inches. "Short" sleeve lengths of 30-31 are sometimes available. Of course, the exact measurements of a men's size "small" will vary among manufacturers-- you might find that some brands of small are larger or cut differently than others.
Men's dress shirts will be typically be sized with specific measurements for neck circumference and sleeve length, with the neck measurement listed first. The chest/waist size ratio of most dress shirts is determined by the manufacturer to be in proportion to the neck size. This can be a challenge in fitting for guys who are short and heavy. Dress shirts can be found in "regular" fit, as well as "athletic" or "trim" fit (with a slight taper toward the waist, for those with broader shoulders and a thin waistline) and "full cut" for those who need a little more room around the middle.
Getting the right fit
Keep in mind that some stores may have their own special fit charts and size tips. This is particularly good to check when shopping online or through catalogs. It's always a good idea to consult sizing charts, ask questions if you are unsure, and find out the return policy in case something doesn't fit as you hoped.
Clothes are designed with different cuts and styles that flatter some body types and not others-- just because a shirt or pair of pants is made with your measurements doesn't mean it is going to look good on you! Try clothes on to be sure. This is especially true if you are trying to find clothes to take emphasis away from wide hips or narrow shoulders.
Finally, don't forget the option of alterations by a tailor or by someone you know with sewing skills. If you are just a little shorter than the average sized pant length available in your area, pants can be easily hemmed to the correct length. Sleeves can also be shortened, though for a good dress shirt you might want to check a short man's specialty store to obtain a better overall fit.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Keep It Casual
Short-sleeve shirts are appropriate to offices that allow them, but crappy short-sleeve shirts are appropriate to crapheads. Keep them clean and ironed; even the finest-aged vintages—a 1977 remnant of a sailing contest, say—can be worn down the hallways of industry if the hems are straight and free from puckering.
Collared dress shirts with short sleeves are fantastic; Steven Malkmus and the engineers of NASA have endorsed them. Despite your own yearnings for cropped sleeves, however, you’ll want to avoid ripping the sleeves off your long-sleeved dress shirts. Instead: purchase. Buy a fitted shape, but nothing too tight. Larger men will want to err on the looser side. Button-down collars say unbuttoned personality. Details on either side of the placket—cute little boxes, illustrations, zippers—went out when Matthew Perry went to rehab. If your short sleeves are at all rolled up, you’re looking to get laid, not promoted. Plaids almost always work; patterns rarely ever do. A straight hem on the shirt will make it look like a cheap jacket, especially if the fabric’s at all waxy; stick to flap-tails. Like capri pants, three-quarter sleeves belong on women. Pockets are good for anything but storage. Bowling or gas-station shirts are good for bowling or gas stations, or demonstrating the only known proof for the argument irony is dead.
Did we mention Hawaiian shirts are now being shown in the Smithsonian? Leave them there, unless you’re surfing. And don’t think we’re ignoring a discussion on the merits of oversized silk shirts bearing dragon images or popular comic-book heroes. We simply think anyone who wears these types of shirts, and wants to have a discussion about them probably will explode from the sheer mind-fuck of multiple universes of logic co-existing in their cranium.
Golf shirts are great. Stick to bold, solid colors (better for larger men, but never pastel) or thin stripes (good for skinny guys). Wear your proper size. Keep the collar down. Realize that if you’re wearing a T-shirt underneath, people will either think that you’re younger than you are (and not in a good way) or that you don’t know how to do laundry (and are trying to get an extra day out of your shirt). Avoid wearing golf shirts to work, and certainly never to a meeting, since the fabric will crinkle and go slack (stretching out from humidity and your nervous tugging) after a few hours. If you must, try to wear a superior specimen that will look good in the late afternoon; Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, and Patagonia make excellent, sturdy shirts. Banana Republic does not.
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Japan Trades In Suits, Cuts Carbon Emission
The feat is particularly impressive because it required overturning a decades-old tradition.
When Yuriko Koike was Japan's environment minister, one of her jobs was to figure out how to deal with climate change. So she hit on what — in Japan — was a radical idea: Get men to stop wearing suits. That way, office buildings could ease up on the air conditioning.
Monday, April 21, 2008
The Jacket
You’ve picked your color and you’re ready for the fit. First comes the jacket. Never was a suit bought for the pants and repeatedly worn afterwards. Pants are easily adjusted by a tailor, jackets can only have minor improvements. Think of true love: it must be close to just-right at first, with a slight thrill when you put it on, the coup de foudre as the French say.
First off: are you a single-breasted man or a double? While both styles can fit most body types, single-breasted jackets tend to flatter the slim while double-breasted jackets make the broad look mighty. This doesn’t imply being “skinny&” or “fat,” it’s simply about your tits; hence the term “breasted.” Choose the jacket style that you can best fill out—from there you’ll always look best. David Letterman, who can rarely be found not wearing a double-breasted jacket, skirts this rule by sitting behind a desk. Notice how uncomfortable he is during the monologue, fussing with his buttons while standing full-view before the camera.
To those opting for the single-breasted jacket, you’ll have to choose how many buttons you want. One? Hmm. Two? Excellent. And returning in popularity. Three? Certainly good, and was much sought-after in the recent past though it’s now reached near total market saturation. But, still classic, and hopefully always available.
Of course, jackets also come in four-, five-, and six-button styles, each with their own fifteen minutes of fame. Four-button jackets have been sported by everyone from The Beatles to Steve Harvey. Can you sport one? Of course! But no, not this season…
Last, the fit. Like we said before, close to the body, but no wrinkles when you button. Vents, double or single, are preferred to the vent-less jacket that, nine times out of ten, looks like a giant condom from behind. Shoulder pads should be avoided—you’re no linebacker—but a tailor will gouge you if you show up post-purchase and ask him to reduce the heft.
Finally, before we move onto trousers, there is one ticklish in-between: the vest. We can put this simply. If you’re ready to buy a vest, you’re either old enough to sport one or dangerously disillusioned. A good rule of thumb: Alfred Hitchcock looked great in vests. Young Jimmy Stewart looked out of his league. Pick your man.
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Coat
A coat was the uppermost layer of the 18th century man's suit, worn over waistcoat and breeches. Both the cut and the title of the fashionable coat saw several evolutions through the course of the century. In the late 17th and early 18th centuries a coat was a relatively straight loose garment, with the slight fullness in the knee-length skirts falling into folds over the backside of the hips.
In the 1720s and 1730s the skirts of the fashionable coat grew in volume and were set into regular pleats. In the 1730s an alternative to the weighty full skirted coat was developed.
This new fashioned coat, with narrow skirts set in pleats and other defining features, including a collar, was termed a Frock. Through the middle decades of the century both the coat and the frock were worn, coats being for fashionable full dress, frocks for fashionable undress. By the 1770s the distinctions in purpose and terminology were becoming blurred. None but the most conservative older man would be seen in a full-skirted coat.
The frock had entered into fashionable full dress, and was by many simply referred to as a coat. In the closing decade of the 18th century and into the next, the frock dominated fashionable dress and language.
Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Suits
Without suits, men would have nothing. In the hierarchy of style, a good suit remains a man’s only trump card. Even in this sad age of casual-wear, the suit still carries an air of success, taste, and sophistication. It is designed to make you look better, to break boundaries between social classes, to make a small man tall with pinstripes or a fat man rich with soft wools. The suit looks good in restaurants, trains, dinner parties or Paris; in short, everywhere you want to be. It is, in its best forms, a complete outfit that will never fail you.
And that is exactly what it will do, if you treat it right. Unfortunately the majority of suits you see look awful. This isn’t necessary. Even if you work ten hours with your jacket on, being mindful of your clothing will keep you ready for cocktails after work. Too many men either don’t care or don’t know how to wear a suit, and, suitably, look like shit. This is worth avoiding.
To start us off, a few general rules should be observed when approaching a suit, and most apply to good dressing in general:
* The suit, no matter the style, needs to fit your body, closely. This means all pieces should be cut and tailored appropriate to your form. Surprisingly, this doesn’t require a lot of money ($500 can, in fact, get you a good suit) but it does take an eye, and the strength to ignore any saccharine compliments from salesmen.
* Trends have six-to-eighteen-month shelf lives. If you plan to retire your suit in this window, feel free to splurge. Otherwise, shop considerately.
* Suits are made of wool or cotton, and their variations. Additional fabrics need not apply.
* You are an interesting, confident, multi-hued man. Let others learn that from how you behave, not from the label on your jacket.
* A suit jacket goes with suit pants, not with jeans or chinos. If you want a casual jacket, buy a sport-coat or a blazer. Stand-up comedians are regularly shot over this rule.
* If you’re not comfortable—if you don’t feel the suit’s appropriate for you—the salesman’s looking out for his commission, not your style.
* A modestly, well-dressed man has never failed to impress. Yes, never.
Assuming you’re not an investment banker, you don’t need ten suits; you only need four. This means you can be a discerning shopper and spend time accumulating, then keeping your suits in good condition (dry clean once a year, then more for spills; don’t you dare iron it yourself). Think of the process in terms of collecting, spending years searching for that one original-packaged Chewbacca.
Friday, April 11, 2008
The Trousers
You must now choose a trouser style. There have been, in the history of men’s trousers, a few trends that fucked with a good thing: bell-bottoms, bibs, clam-diggers, “cargo.” Unfortunately, all of these styles eventually found their way into suits.
Men, generally, will take any pants that come with a jacket. Being men, we want some control over how they look—“How they work,” thinks the man—but not too much. Hence, the cuffs-or-no-cuffs debate. Ask a man what he thinks of his pants and he’ll say, “Yeah, I had to go no-cuffs.” We won’t help you here except to say: cuffs are older, no-cuffs are not. Choose according to your image of yourself.
Next comes the pleats question: The only times pleats are wanted is in the single-pleat case, on a pair of wool pants. The case should be that the pants look crisp and well-folded, rather than puckered. How to tell the difference? Think of a pair of pants recently back from the dry cleaner. Remember the line down the middle of the leg. Does your new pleat-to-be look like that? If not, drop the hanger and run.
After cuffs and pleats, you need to worry about waist, swish, drape, belt-loops, ass-hugging, crotch-dangling, and whether or not you need a watch pocket. This is beyond our advice. Suffice to say, your ass is probably less than marble, though it shouldn’t be treated like a towel hook. Pants shouldn’t blow like a scarf in the breeze. The best way to judge a pair of pants is to ask yourself, “Would I wear these pants on a date without the jacket?” If so, they’re fine. If not, move on.
Finally, a salesman will often ask if you’d like to buy two pairs of pants for the suit. The idea is you can alternate pants with the jacket so they wear evenly over time, but since pants can be so easily ruined, you always have a back-up pair. This is similar to electronics store people trying to sell you insurance on an air conditioner; if you have the money, it’s not a bad idea, but it also isn’t necessary.
So now that you’ve picked out your suit, you have to know how to wear it. We’ll assume you know the basics of putting the thing on. (Yes, the jacket part goes on top.) And this brings us to buttoning. It is a historic dilemma, faced by every man. Here, for you, is our easy-to-remember rulebook:
* Two-button jacket: Button the top button, only, ever. Button the bottom button and you’ll look like a stooge. That’s really all there is to it.
* Three-button jacket: Button either the middle button alone or the top two. Important: the bottom button does not meet its hole. It will plead before a date, just when your stomach’s boiling, “Hey! Friend! Button me once, please. I’m sure we’ll look fine. Come on! Just once!” But you will not give in, you will be strong.