Neckties & Collars

The 19th Century American man had a considerable choice of necktie styles--and many working class types did without them entirely.

By far the most common was the small, black, tidy bow tie, but various forms of cravat, from the Windsor, to the Ascot, found their way onto American throats.

He also wore a wide variety of collars: some removable, some attached, some starched, some soft and some hardly there at all.

This fine looking young man from the 1890s is wearing a Windsor tie, in patterned silk, tucked in after a fashion that seems to have been popular in the US (I have seen several examples of it).

His collar is the winged style often called "Patricide", based on a fictitious story that a young man returned from university wearing the new style starched collar (new in the 1850s). When his father embraced him, the points on the collar cut his father's throat.

This, of course, never happened but the story was enough to name the collar. This style was frequently worn with frock suits, morning suits and evening wear (he seems to be wearing a morning suit). It was seldom worn with sack suits.

Stiff collars were usually removable, so they could be washed and starched apart from the shirt, and thrown away when they became worn, while the shirt could remain in service for years to come.

Removable collars were usually made of linen. Cheap paper and then celluloid collars came on the market at the end of the 19th Century.

The Vest

The vest was an essential part of a gentleman's wardrobe in the 19th Century. It was only ever dispensed with by men doing hard manual labor--though they often sported one as well.

In the 1860s, colorful vests, often of patterned Chinese silk were popular, especially in the South and the West. They are now associated with gamblers, but they had a wider appeal in their time. Gamblers were the last to give them up.

From the 1870s on, vests tended to be black or white for wear with frock coats, morning coats or evening dress coats, which of course, were also black by that time. When worn with a sack suit, they would be of a color to match the suit. Evening vests were cut low to show off the shirt. In the 1860s, the day vest was also often fairly low cut with a broad shawl collar. From the 1870s, the day vest would tend to be fairly high cut and have a small, notched lapel.

There are a few points of difference between 20th Century vests and 19th Century vests. 19th Century vests usually (though not always) had lapels, either in a shawl or notched style. They also nearly always had a lower hem that was parallel to the ground, rather than the modern vest which tapers downward in front.

The following are some photographs of a late 19th Century day vest in my collection.

Informal Clothing

The vast majority of American men did not even wear sack suits for every day attire.

Farmers, laborers, ranchers, factory workers and such usually wore a outfit of sturdy wool, corduroy or denim trousers, a wool flannel, linen or cotton pull over shirt, a hat and sturdy shoes. Suspenders were commonly worn, though they were unpopular with men who had to bend or squat a lot, like sailors, cowboys or miners. Trousers did not have belt loops until the 20th Century.

The daily wear of working men also frequently made use of second hand or worn out pieces of sack, frock or morning suits. Vests were also frequently worn.

The man on the left in the picture on the right is wearing a cotton duck or denim bib apron, a common garment with blacksmiths or others doing particularly dirty work.

The substantial fellow next to him is typical of a western farmer or rancher, in his colorful shirt (red, blue or checked were the most common), smashed hat and (it would appear), neckerchief. His trousers may have been black dress pants in a former life.

Evening Wear

Oh my aching head! Nearly everyone has had a headache. The most common type of headache is a tension headache. Tension headaches are due to tight muscles in your shoulders, neck, scalp and jaw. They are often related to stress, depression or anxiety. You are more likely to get tension headaches if you work too much, don't get enough sleep, miss meals or use alcohol.

Other common types of headaches include migraines, cluster headaches and sinus headaches. Most people can feel much better by making lifestyle changes, learning ways to relax and taking pain relievers.

Headaches can have many causes, but serious causes of headaches are rare. Sometimes headaches warn of a more serious disorder. Let your health care provider know if you have sudden, severe headaches. Get medical help right away if you have a headache after a blow to your head, or if you have a headache along with a stiff neck, fever, confusion, loss of consciousness or pain in the eye or ear.

Gentleman's evening wear changed hardly at all from around 1860 until the 1920s. It was a unvarying uniform of black tail coat, white bow tie, black or white vest (there seems to have been some personal latitude in selecting a vest--black being the most common) and black trousers, with a white, heavily starched shirt. The only thing that changed was the collar, which became tall and stiff around 1890.

Outdoors, evening wear would be worn with a silk top hat and a black cape or overcoat.

White gloves were an essential accessory, especially when dancing, as touching a lady with bare hands was not only a bit crude, but one's sweat could soil her gown.

"The evening or full dress suit for gentlemen is a black dress-suit--a 'swallow tail' coat, the vest cut low, the cravat white, and kid gloves of the palest hue or white. The shirt front should be white and plain; the studs and cuff buttons simple. Especial attention should be given to the hair, which should be neither short nor long. It is better to err on the too short side, as too long hair savors of affectation, destroys the shape of the physiognomy, and has a touch of vulgarity about it. Evening dress is the same for a large dinner party, a ball or an opera. In some circles, however, evening dress is considered to be an affectation, and it is well to do as others do. On Sunday, morning dress is worn, and on that day of the week no gentleman is expected to appear in evening dress, either at church, at home or away from home. Gloves are dispensed with at dinner parties, and pale colors [of gloves] are preferred to white for evening wear."

The Morning Suit

In the early 1880s, a compromise was made between the, by then, rigid formality of the Frock Suit and the laid back informality of the Sack Suit. The result was the Morning Suit.

This suit retained the gray, striped trousers and black vest and coat of the Frock Suit, but softened the lines a bit by rounding the bottom hem of the coat and shrinking the lapels.

Further, unlike the frock suit for which a top hat was essential (at least in town), the Morning Suit allowed a certain amount of latitude in headgear, with top hats for business and formal calls, and a tall crowned bowler for less dressy occasions. There was also more latitude with neck wear than with a Frock Suit, with Windsor ties more common than bow ties.

The Morning Suit could be worn at weddings, funerals, calls of ceremony, teas and other daytime formal occasions. It could also be worn for business, but the Frock Coat still reigned supreme with the management in the office. The Sack Suit or Morning Suit was suitable for more junior staff and clerks.

The Sack Suit

The sack suit, or business suit, (or, in Britain, the "lounge suit") was leisure wear for men who might wear a frock coat, and the best clothes of vast majority of American men. A banker would wear a sack suit to a picnic, and a cowboy or farmer would wear it to church.

It first came into fashion in the 1850s as a very large, baggy garment, and then became more fitted in the '60s and beyond. It evolved into the modern three piece suit.

Its popularity was assured by the fact that it could be purchased, ready made, at prices working men could afford.

The most common colors were black or gray, and the pieces usually, but not always, matched. They could be almost any color though, and plaid was particularly popular.

The coat usually had four buttons, the top one of which was generally buttoned--the rest left undone.

The gentleman on the left is breaking the rule of matching trousers and upper garments, and is in fact wearing the striped gray tousers which one is supposed to wear with a morning or frock suit. Since he is also wearing a white tie, he may be a member of a wedding party, and this is his way of "dressing up" his ordinary sack suit, or maybe he is a just an American and doesn't worry too much about "the rules".

Note the splendid tall crowned bowler hat (typical of the late '70s and 1880s), the watch chain attached to one of the top vest buttons, the vest cut straight across the waist, and the bone, wood or gutta-percha (gavinized rubber) buttons. On frock or morning coats, the buttons were usually covered in silk or other fabric, while they were usually uncovered on sack suits.

The Frock Suit (Day Wear)

The frock coat was single or double breasted, usually black, bottom hem above the knee, and distinguished by a squared shape at the bottom front. Its companion, the morning coat was single breasted and has a rounded, swallow tail shape. Both were refered to as "morning" dress, to distinguish them from evening dress. Both were worn with contrasting pants and top hats. In the South and West however, top hats were often replaced by broad brimmed, low crowned hats for everyday frock suit wear. Garish colorful vests, often of patterned Chinese silk, were still common with frock suits through the early '60s, but were replaced by black, white or gray by the '70s. The same applied to ties. Colorful cravats were often seen with Frocks in the '60s, but by the '70s most, but not all, had been replaced by small black bow ties.

"The morning dress for gentlemen is a black frock coat, or a black cut-away, white or black vest, according to the season, gray or colored pants, plaid or stripes according to the fashion, a high silk stove pipe hat, and a black scarf or necktie. A black frock coat with black pants is not considered a good combination.. The morning dress is suitable for garden parties, Sundays, social teas, informal calls, morning calls and receptions."

Hair Styles to Suit your Face Shape

Fashion cannot be followed blindly! Especially with hairstyles, you should always see what suits your facial features . The marvelous hairstyle that might look good on a model may not of necessity look good for you.

Hair Style for A round face Shape

Since you have a nice round face, see that your hair is cut onto your cheeks to dark them and slim down the sides. A shoulder length cut will help make your face look longer and slimmer. Avoid periphery and tresses. A soft feathery look is the most satisfying. Straight long hair gives a stunning effect!

Hair Style for A Long face Shape

Your beautiful long face can be made to look less long with outer reaches, soft half-fringes or a chin-length cut which is fuller at the bottom, add width. Anything but a long straight bob, which will make you come into view even more long faced and pulls down your whole appearance.

Hair Style for A heart-shaped face

Since you have a beautiful heart-shaped face, smoothness at the temples and completeness just below the ear level suits you the best. Avoid a center parting, as it tends to highlight your pointed chin, instead part your hair on one side or wear it without a part. If your hair is short, turn the ends inwards.

Hair Style for A Square face Shape

Fringes and curls flicked forward help to soften ‘corners’ of you square face. Cut your hair short at the temples. Avoid symmetry, short crops or anything geometric. Make sure your hair has body, if necessary go in for a soft perm.

OFFICIAL FEARS OF FIFTH COLUMN FASHION

Official reactions to the Zoot-Suit Riots varied enormously. The most urgent problem that concerned California's State Senators was the adverse effect that the events might have on the relationship between the United States and Mexico. This concern stemmed partly from the wish to preserve good international relations, but rather more from the significance of relations with Mexico for the economy of Southern California, as an item in the Los Angeles Times made clear. 'In San Francisco Senator Downey declared that the riots may have 'extremely grave consequences' in impairing relations between the United States and Mexico. and may endanger the program of importing Mexican labor to aid in harvesting California crops.(21) These fears were compounded when the Mexican Embassy formally drew the Zoot-Suit Riots to the attention of the State Department. It was the fear of an international incident (22) that could only have an adverse effect on California's economy, rather than any real concern for the social conditions of the MexicanAmerican community, that motivated Governor Warren of California to order a public investigation into the causes of the riots. In an ambiguous press statement, the Governor hinted that the riots may have been instigated by outside or even foreign agitators:

As we love our country and the boys we are sending overseas to defend it, we are all duty bound to suppress every discordant activity which is designed to stir up international strife or adversely affect our relationships with our allies in the United Nations.The Zoot-Suit Riots provoked two related investigations; a fact finding investigative committee headed by Attorney General Robert Kenny and an un-American activities investigation presided over by State Senator Jack B Tenney. The un-American activities investigation was ordered "to determine whether the present Zoot-Suit Riots were sponsored by Nazi agencies attempting to spread disunity between the United States and Latin-American countries."(24) Senator Tenney, a member of the un-American Activities committee for Los Angeles County, claimed he had evidence that the Zoot-Suit Riots were "axis-sponsored" but the evidence was never presented.(25) However, the notion that the riots might have been initiated by outside agitators persisted throughout the month of June, and was fueled by Japanese propaganda broadcasts accusing the North American government of ignoring the brutality of US marines.

The arguments of the un-American activities investigation were given a certain amount of credibility by a Mexican pastor based in Watts, who according to the press had been "a pretty rough customer himself, serving as a captain in Pancho Villa's revolutionary army."(26) Reverend Francisco Quintanilla, the pastor of the Mexican Methodist church, was convinced the riots were the result of fifth columnists. "When boys start attacking servicemen it means the enemy is right at home. It means they are being fed vicious propaganda by enemy agents who wish to stir up all the racial and class hatreds they can put their evil fingers on."(27)

The attention given to the dubious claims of nazi-instigation tended to obfuscate other more credible opinions. Examination of the social conditions of pachuco youths tended to be marginalized in favour of other more "newsworthy" angles. At no stage in the press coverage were the opinions of community workers or youth leaders sought, and so, ironically, the most progressive opinion to appear in the major newspapers was offered by the Deputy Chief of Police, E.W. Lester. In press releases and on radio he provided a short history of gang subcultures in the Los Angeles area and then tried, albeit briefly, to place the riots in a social context.

Tips on buying your first suit

Finding a store and a helpful salesperson

Buying a suit for the first time can be daunting, especially if you have little experience with the topic. The whole process is made much easier and more enjoyable if you find a friendly and knowledgeable salesperson to assist you. If you want a suit that looks good and fits comfortably, be prepared to spend a good deal of time with your salesperson, and don't be afraid to ask questions or speak up when something feels odd or uncomfortable. If you aren't working well with a particular salesperson, don't hesitate to try another store or find someone else to assist you--it will be worthwhile to find a person who will really take an interest in helping you.

A good way to find a knowledgeable salesperson is to ask a well-dressed friend or relative where they purchased their suit. You could even ask a well-dressed stranger--many men are happy to give referrals if they have found a store or salesperson they especially like.

If you cannot get a referral, you might want to try a popular men's store such as The Men's Wearhouse, a reputable menswear shop in your town, or the menswear section of a major department store.

If you are a man who is smaller in stature, you might want to check the Men's Clothing for Short and Small Guys page for a list of retailers who specialize in short men's clothing and custom-made clothing. A number of these retailers feature suits and formal wear.

Fitting the suit properly

When you are shopping for a suit, you should expect the salesperson to take all your measurements: neck, shoulders, sleeves, chest, waist, and inseam. Have them measure you first, before you begin looking at suits.

If there is any part of the suit that doesn't fit exactly right, it should be altered by the shop. In some stores, alterations are free, and in some you will pay a fee. Again, it is good to be working with a salesperson who has your best interests in mind when it comes to fitting. Be sure to ask questions if you are not sure how something should feel or fit.

For men who are binding

Keep in mind that if you are binding your chest, your salesperson and tailor might have to make some special considerations when fitting the suit for you. Wear your usual binder when shopping for your suit. If you wish to explain the binder to the salesperson, you can tell him or her that you suffer from gynecomastia (a condition of enlarged breast tissue in men), and that you need a suit that will help minimize the look of your chest. If you have been referred to an understanding tailor or salesperson, you may choose to disclose your trans status and ask them to work with you on fitting the suit to best flatter your current appearance. However, you should not feel obligated to explain your binder to anyone; some men wear medical braces or other items under their clothing-- all such items are typically considered to be a private matter.

Ties

The tie you choose should have subtle patterns and background colors to match the suit. If you are unsure, ask for assistance in a good menswear store. 100% silk ties tend to make the best knots. If you feel choked when wearing a tie, make sure that the collar of your shirt is not too tight--this is often the cause of the discomfort.
How to tie a tie

Four basic tie knots are described here: the four-in-hand, the half Windsor, the full Windsor (double Windsor), and the bow tie. The bow tie is usually only used with a tuxedo and is not recommended for a classic suit and tie look.

Keep in mind that when you look at the illustrations below, they are mirror images: they show what you would see as you look in the mirror to tie your tie.

Four-in-hand

This knot is simple to tie and has just a few twists. Learn this knot first, as it is the easiest, and it's an appropriate knot for all occasions.

1. Drape the tie over your neck and under your shirt collar. Start with the wide end of the tie on your right and extend it a foot below the narrow end.
2. Cross the wide end over the narrow end, and bring it back underneath.
3. Continue around, crossing the wide end over the narrow end once more.
4. Pass the wide end through the loop you have created near your shirt collar.
5. Holding the front of the knot loose with your index finger, pass the wide end down through the loop in front.
6. Remove finger and tighten the knot carefully. Draw up to the collar by holding the narrow end and sliding knot up snugly.

Half Windsor

The half Windsor is an excellent all-occasion knot that is relatively easy to tie.

1. Drape the tie over your neck and under your shirt collar. Start with the wide end of the tie on your right and extend it a foot below the narrow end.
2. Cross the wide end over the narrow end, and bring it back underneath.
3. Bring the wide end up and turn down through the loop you've created near your collar.
4. Pass the wide end around the front from left to right.
5. Bring the wide end up and through the loop from behind.
6. Bring the wide end down through the knot in front. Tighten carefully and draw up to your collar.

Full Windsor (Double Windsor)

The full Windsor is the dressiest knot of the three. It is ideal for wide collar openings and extra-long neckties, though it may look crowded if you have a narrow collar opening.

1. Drape the tie over your neck and under your shirt collar. Start with the wide end of the tie on your right and extend it a foot below the narrow end.
2. Cross the wide end over the narrow end and bring up through the loop you've created near your collar.
3. Bring the wide end down and around behind the narrow end, then up on your right.
4. Pass the wide end through the loop, then around and across the narrow end.
5. Turn and pass the wide end up through the loop.
6. Complete by slipping the wide end down through the knot in the front. Tighten and draw up snug to your collar.

Bow tie

This knot is appropriate for tuxedos.
1. Drape the tie over your neck and under your shirt collar. Start with the end in your left hand extending 1-1.5 inches below the end in your right hand.
2. Cross the longer end (in your left hand) over the shorter end and pass up through the loop around your neck.
3. Form the front loop of the bow by doubling up the shorter end (the hanging end), and placing across your collar points.
4. Hold this front loop with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand. Drop the long end down over the front loop. Make sure that the front loop remains well formed and tight against your neck.
5. Place your right forefinger pointing up on the bottom half of the hanging part of the tie. Pass it up behind the front loop.
6. Poke the resulting loop through the knot behind the front loop. Even the ends and tighten.

Shirt

It is best to have a 100% cotton dress shirt to wear with your suit (like wool, cotton breathes). Plain white, point collar shirts are okay with all styles of suits and on all occasions. There are numerous variations in shirt collars-- you should choose a collar that is both classic and flattering to your face. For example, if you have a narrow face, you might want to consider a spread collar; if you have a round face, consider a straight point collar. As a rule, never wear a button-down collar shirt with a double-breasted suit.

Your shirt should be smooth around the neck and allow for an index finger of breathing room in the collar. You should never feel choked by your collar. Most men who feel choked when wearing a suit and tie often are wearing shirts with an ill-fitting collar. Have a salesperson measure you to fit your shirt and collar properly.

Belt, shoes, and socks

Your belt should be the same color as your shoes, and both belt and shoes should preferably be made of leather. Black is usually a safe choice for both shoes and belt. Wingtips or other traditional lace-up shoes are recommended. Socks should be dress socks and should match your pants. The metal of your belt buckle should match the metal of your watch, if you wear one.

Cut

The cut of a suit refers to how the suit sits or hangs on your body. Suits can be broken down into three basic cuts:

1. The American cut. First introduced by Brooks Brothers in 1895, it features a boxy silhouette, straight hanging lines, natural shoulders (no padding), flap pockets, and a single center vent in the jacket. The American cut is a classic cut that is a fine choice for a first suit.

2. The British cut. This cut is more shaped than the American suit with slightly pinched waist, double vents, higher armholes, padded shoulders, and flap pockets.

3. The European cut (Italian). Sleek, modern, with padded shoulders, no vents, flapless pockets, and tapered waist (V-shape) on the jacket.

Of course, these are simply basic descriptions; there are many variations in the way suits are cut and styled. For example, another popular cut variation in recent years is the "executive cut," which allows for more room along the waistline for those men who carry more weight in their belly.

The important thing when considering cut and style is to find a suit that fits and flatters your particular body type, and that is "classic" enough in its styling that it won't go out of style next season. Ask your salesperson to help you find a good, basic cut and style that will wear well for you on many occasions.

Fabric

It is highly recommended that your first suit be made of 100% wool. Wool is a natural fiber that breathes, which means you'll be more comfortable and you'll sweat less than in a suit made of man-made materials. Wool is also durable and travels well.

Fabrics other than wool have their drawbacks, and probably should not be considered for a first suit, unless there is no alternative. Polyester suits should be avoided, as they do not breathe, but if you need to keep costs down, a polyester/wool blend might be a reasonable choice.

Look for suits made of 100% "worsted" wool. The worsting process involves selecting long wool fibers and twisting them into tight and resilient yarns. Worsted wool suits are durable, hard-wearing, and usually fine for wear in all seasons.

As for the weight of the fabric, the mid-weights are best overall for year-round wear, unless you live in a very warm climate. If you do happen to live in a very warm or very cold climate, ask your salesperson about your best options in fabric weight.

Caring for your suit

Lining inside the suit jacket pants increases comfort and reduces wrinkling. A crotch liner can be added to your suit pants to reduce abrasion between your thighs and the suit's fabric, and to help your pants last longer.

Always unbutton your suit coat when sitting. Also when sitting, pull your slacks up slightly at the thigh to reduce stress on the seams.

Always hang your suit on a curved wooden hanger, with the curve going forward. Leave space between your suit(s) and the other garments hanging in your closet.

When your suit gets wrinkled, have it pressed. You only need to dry clean your suit when it is dirty. Suits worn regularly usually only need to be dry cleaned a few times per year. Too much dry cleaning makes natural fibers like wool more brittle, so dry clean only when necessary.

Points to consider when buying a suit

When shopping for a suit, consider fabric, style and cut, color, and having the suit fitted properly. You should also consider the accessories you'll need with a suit, such as a dress shirt, a tie, a belt, and a good pair of shoes. Keep those items in mind and mention them to your salesperson when considering your budget.

Although retailers often recommend buying the best suit one can afford, when it comes to first-time suits, it may be wiser to hold back. This is especially true for trans men who have just started testosterone as their bodies will probably go through some major changes (much like any man experiences going through puberty) . It would be a shame to grow out of an expensive suit in less than a year! This is not to say that you should buy the cheapest suit off the rack-- you should still look for quality and a good fit whenever possible. Discuss your budget constraints with your salesperson, and have him or her guide you to your best options within that range.

A note for those on a very strict budget: You might want to visit a menswear store to have your measurements taken and to get a general education on fabric, cut, and how a good suit should look and feel on your body. Then you can take this information and visit a thrift store to find a suit that fits reasonably well, and spend a little money to have it fitted properly by a tailor. Thrift stores may have a decent selection of good wool suits (some worn only a few times) at very reasonable prices.